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Product Spotlight: Uncover Deer Nutrition Secrets with Michael Cleveland
We’re going to connect with Michael Cleveland of Ultimate Antler Deer Feed. Michael, welcome.
Thanks for having me, Bruce.
You and I met on social media and we started talking about deer and nutrition and what it takes to grow big deer, what it takes to hold big deer. That’s why I wanted to invite you. Let’s just take it off and right at the top. Why did you get involved in the deer nutrition business?
It all started back when I was twelve years old. Like most people, my dad took me hunting and the first time he took me, I fell in love with white-tailed deer. That’s been my passion my whole life. I’m normal just like everybody else. The only thing different for me than anybody else is I had the passion. It bit me so hard that it was my whole life. Over the years, hunting and taking animals and harvesting different animals, I’m just like everybody else. After a while, you get tired of shooting the two and three-year-olds and you just want to shoot bigger animals. That’s what my passion turned into. I started letting deer walk, trying to let them get a year older, a year bigger. Everybody else deals with this too. As soon as they jump the fence, your neighbors shoot them. That’s part of free-range, free chase whitetails. We started back many years ago and we started intensely managing our whitetail herd.
I live in Oklahoma. We enrolled in all of the Oklahoma management programs that the Oklahoma Wildlife Department offers. We had food plots, we had alfalfa circles, we had mineral sites, we had everything. We did everything that the wildlife department told us. We let deer walk. We tried to manage our deer herds as far as having the right buck to doe ratio. We were letting deer go from one year to the next. All of a sudden, Mother Nature, you know how she all too often how she does, she blessed us with a five-year drought here in Northwest Oklahoma. In those five years, we had a little over 2.3 inches of rain in five years. There was nothing out there for the deer to eat, no browse, nothing. It wasn’t something that we planted and had irrigation. There was nothing out there for the whitetails to eat. What happened is on one particular farm that we have, my partner and I, Randy Lively, that’s in the business with me, he’s got a place where he grows alfalfa and that alfalfa had been there for a few years.
The deer are growing up on the alfalfa and that was basically the only thing around for them to eat. We had deer coming from miles around. During that time period, alfalfa was good. It’s about 30% protein. The deer had all the protein that they needed. During that time that we had that drought, the deer from one year to the next, instead of getting bigger, they actually got a little smaller. We had deer that were on trail camera pictures that we had taken inventory of. You can tell exactly what deer it is. Their rack looks exactly the same from one year to the next. From the deer being four to five years old, they actually went backward. They lost seven to ten inches of antler growth. Typically between that four and five-year age, that’s their biggest jump. Our deer actually went backward. I got with my cousin, which at the time he was a Wildlife Biologist for the State of Oklahoma, then one of our best friends he’s the Assistant Director of the Oklahoma Wildlife Department. We got with them, started talking to them about management practices and how we could actually grow these deer bigger. My cousin, he was a game ball. He told me to get in contact with the University of Texas A&M down in Texas and they’ve been managing wildlife and putting supplemental feed out for these wild deer for years. I got in contact with them. How that came all evolved and came about was what they did was they put some mineral out for the deer and they started feeding these deer.
What they would do is they’d collect the feces and then send it off to have it analyzed and it was showing no traces or no amounts of minerals. They started adding more. Once they started getting the mineral in the feces and they knew at that point in time that was the amount of mineral that was required for deer to grow its antlers. That’s public knowledge. You can go on their website, you can Google it, whatever. They’ll give you that information. They’ll tell you what minerals are required to grow the antlers. There are two types of minerals that are out there. There are your micro minerals and there are your core minerals. The number one mineral associated antler development is selenium. You have your phosphorus, your phosphate, your calcium, your copper, your zinc. You have all the minerals that are required to grow the antlers.
What we did is we took that, we blended it in with the protein because deer eat protein every day. The mineral, you pour it out and I challenge everybody to do this, but pour mineral on the ground and install a trail camera up against it. What’s going to happen is when you first pour it out, they’re going to come and they’re going to hammer it because they’re mineral deficient. Their bodies are needing the minerals. They’re going to eat and you’re going to get pictures of them two or three nights in a row. Once they get everything that their body is required in the minerals, they’ll stop touching it for four or five days. After four or five days, they’ll come back to the mineral sites and they’ll eat it and then they won’t touch it again for four or five days.
That’s because wild animal only consumes it all when their body requires it. They’ll eat the protein every day. What we did is we took the protein and we blended in the mineral right in the protein. We’re force feeding them the mineral. They’re getting the mineral every day that they eat the protein. That won’t hurt them. They’re going to utilize what they can and what they don’t they’re going just to expel. What we did in our research and development, we took that and then we added a probiotic. Once we added the probiotic to the feed, we started sending that off and then we no longer got mineral in our feces anymore. We started adding more mineral and more mineral until we started getting mineral in our results that were at the laboratory. We knew that was the max amount of mineral that a whitetail will consume. That’s what is on my feed. That’s what it comprises of. The secret is blending the correct minerals that grow the antlers in with the protein.
I’ll never talk bad about anybody’s product because any product that’s out there on the market is going to be better than what Mother Nature provides. Where I think that my feed sets aside other than any other feed is our protein is made up of all natural components. We use soybean meal, cottonseed meal. We put all of the vitamins and minerals that are required to grow the antlers in our feed. There are some feeds out there that they use urea to make up their protein. I use chicken feathers to make up the protein content and everything’s all natural. That’s what sets us aside from all the others.
Once we added that supplemental feed to our management program, the very first year that we had the product out, those deer that were four-year-old that went to five-year-olds and actually went backward, we’ve got them going from five-year-old to six-year-old and averaged the first year and they averaged 40 to 50 pounds of body weight more. We not only help the antlers, but we also helped the body weight. We also put a calcium mineral pack in our feed that helps with lactating does so that whenever they have fawns, they jumpstart the fawns off to a better start.
Are you feeding year-round or just during when they dropped their antlers or they start growing their antlers? I don’t know what it is in Oklahoma, but in places it’s March. Tell me about your feeding regimen.
We feed year-round and the reason we feed year-round is that deer can store the micro minerals in their fat reserves. By feeding year-round, what that does is they have those micro minerals in their fat reserves and as soon as they shed their antlers within ten to twelve days, they actually will start growing the new antlers. That way they have the minerals in their system and they’re ready to go as soon as they start growing antlers. Here’s the deal. On average, just like everybody else, I want to do things the best way that I can, but I want to do it the cheapest way I can. You are actually going to get a benefit if you feed the product from the 1st of February and feed it until the end of August during the antler rolling phase. If you want to cheapen up your meal and you want to at the end of August when they’re done growing antlers and you all need corn or whatever you want to feed that’s cheaper, go ahead and do that. You’re not hurting anything, but you’re going to lose two to three weeks whenever they start growing antlers again by not feeding year-round. I tell a lot of people you’re going to lose two to three weeks.
What does that equate to in inches? I can’t tell you. It might be five inches, it might be ten inches but you’re still going to see a benefit if you start feeding the 1st of February and you feed all the way to the end of August. I leave it up to the individual. Fortunately, the good Lord’s blessed me with a good enough job that I can afford to feed my deer year-round. I’m not going to tell anybody that they can’t do it. The whole secret to it is once you start feeding it at the beginning of February is to make sure you had it in front of that animal the whole time. If you put it out in February and you don’t go back and fill it up again through March, and he doesn’t have that out there in front of him for those months, then that’s going to be critical. You have to have it out whenever you start feeding them, make sure that it’s available for them all the way through the antler growing phase.
What are we talking about year-round feeding? What does it run?
My product, we sell it for $13.50 for a 50-pound bag. I will challenge anybody to find it any cheaper. We have everything in it that are required to grow the antlers. Depending on deer density, deer numbers, everybody’s a little bit. What we recommend is to feed it year-round and we recommend to have one feeder that you have. Whenever you put that feeder out, we challenge everybody and we like to have that next to or as close to a water source as possible. I know not everybody has a windmill or a pond or a creek or some water source. If you don’t, you can make your own. Put a tank out there, get your nurse tank and go fill it up and out of your faucet, haul it out to your location, open a bow and create your own water source. Have the feed as close to a water source and as close to a bedding area as possible. If you have those three elements, you’re going to hold deer on your property. If you have feed, water and food, you’re going to hold your deer on your property longer and until the rut comes or the pre-rut comes and those deer start breaking out of their bachelor herds and fighting and establishing dominance, you’re going to hold those deer on your property.
What’s your ratio? Did you say two bucks per 50 pounds?
Yes. We’ve bought a bit of study on this and we figured that they’re going to eat anywhere from a pound-and-a-half to three pounds a day as per animal is what they’ll eat.The best total protein and mineral source for your deer on the planet. Click To Tweet
What about does? I want bucks to grow the horns. Does don’t have horns. Are they going to eat the food too and take away from the bucks?
They won’t take away from the bucks. You want your does to eat too because the whole thing is you want them fawns to be jump started off. You want your baby deer to be healthy. You want your herd to be healthy. Everybody that has feeders and has had cameras out on these feeders, you’ve witnessed this. What happens if you have a feeder and you’re going to have a dominant buck that is going to claim that feeder. Whenever he comes up there and starts eating, he’s going to keep everything else off the feeder. What happens is whenever you’re feeding this in the spring and the summer, whenever they’re in their bachelor groups, what’s going to happen is your bachelor herd is going to come up and they’re going to eat out of this. They’re going to eat for three to five minutes, then they’re going to leave.
Your does will come up and then they’re going to feed, then they’re going to feed for three to five minutes, then they’re going to leave. They’re going to go to water and they’re going to get water and they’re going to bed down. About four hours later they’re going to come back. Every one of your groups of deer will come back, but they’ll be separated. They’ll go to eat and then you’re going to have another couple of does that are going to come to eat. There would be six or more does that are going to come to eat and then your bucks are going to come and then they’re going to eat, then they’re going to leave. You’re going to have another group of bucks that are going to come, they’re going to eat. You’re benefiting your whole herd. You’re not just benefiting one or two deer.
It behooves somebody to know what deer herd to head, what their census is because if you put up 50 pounds, what I hear you say that could be gone quick if you’ve got 25 deer. That could be done in a day.
That’s why we recommend people using, and I don’t care what brand, but some gravity type feeder. That way, all your deer are going to come and you’re going to benefit from that. When we first started, I said, “We’re just average guys out here.” We didn’t have a lot of money to spend in gravity style feeders. We had spinner type feeders. What we did is we would just go pour it out on the ground. We would pour a 50-pound bag out on the ground and we would go back the next day and we would check it. If it was gone, we’d pour out another 50 pounds. If it was gone every day, then we started learning, “We need to pour out 100 pounds at a time or whatever, a couple of bags.” The problem with that is with Mother Nature, the elements, rain and stuff like that, raccoons, turkeys, you waste a lot of feed like that. We recommend getting a feeder that’s a gravity style feeder. That way it’s up high enough off the ground that the raccoons and the turkeys and everything is not robbing the feed from the deer.
It’s going to be legal to feed in your state. In some states, in some areas, some counties it isn’t. Before you jump into the process, make sure it’s legal where your land is. That’s for sure.
There are some states that will allow you to supplemental feed your deer, but they won’t let you hunt over it. You need to check your rules and regulations before you put any of it out.
Let’s get back. You had the drought for four or five years and your deer herd was going backward. You started this program. You did some scientific research and studies and figured it out. How large is the area that you’re feeding on?
I have a couple of different places. My buddy that’s partners with me in the deer feed, he has a couple of different places and he has one area that’s about 1,700 acres. The areas that I have, I have one that is 120 acres and everybody says, “You can’t manage deer on 120 acres.” Everybody has their own opinion but I have proof that I’ve done a pretty good job of that. There are three key elements that you’ve got to have and that’s cover. You’ve got to provide food and you’ve got to provide water. I’ve got perfect examples like this deer right I have. He’s a nine-pointer. He scores 167 and five eights and I shot him as a four-year-old. I shot one. He’s a four-year-old and he scores 176 and seven eights as four-year-olds. I shot them on 120 acres.
How I did that was I grew them deer. I had pictures of him from the time they were two-years-old. What I did is I provided food, I provided water and I provided cover. I allowed them deer to get to four-and-a-half-years-old. Luckily, my neighbors on the same program that I am, and we all get together and we talk about it and we say, “We’re not shooting your deer until he gets old enough.” I could argue that if I had let those deer get to five-and-a-half or six-and-a-half, they had been mega giants, but I’ve been hunting for a long time and it’s hard for me to pass up anything that goes over 165, so four years old. That was due to my feed. Those deer put on 30 to 40 inches every year and are just exceptionally nice deer.
Anybody would be challenged to see 150-inch walk past you, what you know is four-and-a-half-years-old. Those are mature deer. Any shot you take, it’s your hunt. It’s hard to pull off them and say, “I have 120 acres. We’ve got friendly neighbors, let’s say, but it would be hard.”
I am so positive. I’m into growing big deer, but I don’t begrudge anybody. If you had been hunting for 50 years and a twenty-inch comes to you and it grips your trigger, then shoot it. I’m all for it. For me personally, I dislike growing big deer. If I can harvest them, that’s a bonus. If I can’t, then I really enjoy watching them from year to year and to see how big they get.Every situation is a little bit different. You have to be able to adapt. Click To Tweet
Let’s talk about your hunting 20 acres because for Western Oklahoma, that’s pretty small. That’s like 40 acres or 20 acres in Wisconsin actually. Let’s talk about the topography of it.
Where I hunt at, it is about a half a mile off of the Canadian river and at my 120 acres, there are probably less than 40 acres. I’d say 30 to 35 acres of woods, trees, hardwoods. The rest of it is open prairie, grass flat. It’s flat. From where the river is, my place is a transition period. The river is north of me, then I’m south of the river. South of me is the agriculture, the alfalfa, and the winter wheat. My place is pretty good because I’m in the transition period. I have some bedding area, but not a lot. Not like the river does, but I do have some hardwoods. I do have water. I’ve let the cedars grow up in that area that I have. I have a lot of thermal winter cover, so it’s a good bedding area for the deer to get out of the thermal winter. Whenever the wind’s cold and blowing hard as it does in Oklahoma all the time, they have a place to get in and bed down. In my area, I can hold the deer, I feed them, I water them, I provide that cover. I offer everything that they need until the rut comes along. If it was in Illinois or Iowa or Wisconsin or somewhere that was heavily wooded, my 120 acres would be 20 or 30 acres up there.
You’ve done a great job. I love how you thought through the process of what the deer needs and how to measure that they’re absorbing it, using it or throwing it off their body. You get back to the basics. The thing is I think you’re right when you mentioned that once you start a feeding program, you’ve got to commit to that because it doesn’t do you any good if you start something and don’t just carry it on. It is work. Being 365 is work. Living where you do, how far it is it to your farm?
I live in Tulsa and it’s three-and-a-half-hours from my place here in Tulsa where I lived at my place in Northwest Oklahoma.
Who takes care of the feeding for you?
I do it all. I’m not plugging for any feeder manufacturer. I’m not doing that, but I have some feeders and they’re 600-pound feeders. On my 120 acres, I have two feeders and I have about 60 deer on that 120 acres. I’ve done that from deer studies, from night spotlight counts that we do with the Oklahoma Wildlife Department. I know how many deer I have. I have two 600-pound feeders and what that does is that lasts me about thirteen to fifteen days. Every other weekend, I’m going home and filling up feeders.
Two times a month?
Yes. There are certain times of the year that the deer will consume more than other times. Coming right out of winter like January and February, they consume three pounds a day. In Oklahoma, the good Lord has blessed us with a lot of moisture. We have a lot of browse. The deer aren’t consuming as much as they normally would. They’re consuming about a pound to a pound-and-a-half a day. This time of year, I can let my feeders go for three weeks. Other times of the year, I have to go every two weeks. I just make it a point to go and I fill them up every two weeks, whether they’re completely empty and I need to fill them completely full or whether they’re half-full and I just need to fill him up halfway to top them off.
You were smart to start a business because you’re going to grow deer, it takes feed to do it. You own the company. Good on you.
Here’s the thing about it. If you think about it, most hunters don’t feed year-round but they watch TV and they say, “I saw some fancy hunter on TV the other day and he shot 180-inch deer. I want to go out and I’m on a hunt hard. I’m going to hunt the wind. I’m going to do everything that I can. I want to shoot me 180.” Let’s be honest about it. If you don’t have 180-inch deer where you hunt, you’re not going to kill 180-inch deer. What you have to do is you have to think back and like, “What do I get?” You have to grow that deer. If you want to shoot, I don’t care if it’s 130-inch deer. You’ve got to grow 130-inch deer. You have to provide everything for that animal that Mother Nature doesn’t provide in order to do that. I feed year-round. I give my deer everything that he needs to grow that rack during that antler growing phase.
How do people reach out to you? How do they get on your website? How do they buy your product?
They can go to the website. Our website is UltimateAntlerDeerFeed.net. Our email is UltimateAntlerDeerFeed@Gmail.com. They look at our Facebook page, Ultimate Antler Deer Feed. (580) 334-4181, they call (580) 273-3320. If they love talking about whitetails, then I’ll talk all day long when somebody wants to do that.You have is to grow that deer and help him reach maturity so that you can harvest it. Click To Tweet
Get ahold of Michael.
I’d like for people to go out and look at our Facebook page. I’ve got a good friend of mine that has a high fence deer farm and he has allowed us to do a lot of research and development on his facility. Whenever we first started with this program, we asked him, “Can we conduct some research and development on your facility?” He said, “Yes, absolutely I’ll let you do it for a year. If it works, I’ll tell everybody I know. If it doesn’t work, I’ll tell everybody I know.” He had fifteen-year-old bucks in one pen and they’re all pretty well the same genetics. I said, “Open up the pen, let eight of them out. We’re going to put them in this pen, we’re going to feed them my feed and my feed only.” You’re seven in your pen, you feed them the feed that you’ve been feeding for years. Let’s just do some research, do a study on it. We did that. In the pen, it had the eight bucks in it, the first year without the feed. It’s a pen facility so they pulled that off of them. They weigh them, we cut the antlers off of them and we measure the antlers and the antler development between both pens, that was in my pen and seven that was in his pen. They were pretty consistent. We fed the eight in that pen with my feed, then he fed just a regular feed that you can buy on the market. He fed that to his seven.
After one year of being on the feed, the eight bucks in that pen averaged 60 pounds more of volume. That was in his pen. 110 more inches of antler development in the seven that was in his pen. Good believer out in feeds. Everything on his farm is fed with mine. We have 27 deer farms that are on our feed and we have hundreds of hunters and sportsman that do the fair chase, wild deer. We have a lot of customers on that. We’ve got the same results year-after-year. Depending on where you’re at, the drought we’re having, anywhere from 25 to 40 inches of antler development from one year to the next. We were talking a little bit earlier and how to like to circle around to that. We’re talking about the things that have an impact on antler development. You have got to provide that nutrition for that animal.
The other thing too is stress. There are a lot of people that don’t think about that, but stress is the number one factor antler development. It’s 117 degrees out in August here in Oklahoma, that creates a lot of stress on these animals. As I went back to earlier, by providing the food, the water and the cover in the same area, that provides less stress on these animals because they can go lay down in the shade during the day until it cools off during the night. They’re not to use a lot of energy going and searching for food and water and stuff like that. By providing it to them, it creates less stress on the animals and that in turn allows them to grow more antlers also.
Let’s talk about how you hunt your woods and your 120 acres because in the right conditions, you could be in a ground blind and you can hunt, if you have typography, if it’s not pool table flat, you can hunt that way. Especially if deer are coming off the Canadian river and heading through your property to food every day because they will travel that far.
I help a lot of people out there look at their properties, tell them where they hang stands, put water sources and stuff like that. What I like to do is I like to get a topo map of the area. Mother Nature provides natural bottlenecks, natural funnels, etc. I like to find those natural corridors, those now natural travel patterns. On my place, I have that’s 120 acres. I’ve got about 30 acres of woods and that’s basically split into two sections. On the east half I have a set of timber that borders up to the river that is nothing but cedar thickets, really thick bedding areas cedar thickets. It’s not pool table flat, but if you’re standing up, a six-foot man can stand up and he can see clear to the other end of the property. There are little rises and little falls in there. The way that the trees grow in there makes a natural funnel coming from this bedding area, like a shelter belt or a tree row. There’s a natural funnel area that funnels those deer out to that where they can have that transition period before they go out to the destination food plots, which is the alfalfa and the winter wheat. I do have a ground blind set up there. I have that set up for my sons. I’ve got a five-year-old and eleven-year-old that are absolutely ate up with hunting also and they crossbow hunt. I set him up in that, but typically I like to get up off the ground and we have a lot of cottonwood trees in Oklahoma on our river bottoms.
I like to set 25 foot up in the air. One thing that I do a little bit different than most people is I do not hunt until conditions are perfect. I have trail cameras out and until I start getting that deer in daylight, I don’t even go in there because if he’s not coming in and daylight, I don’t want to bother them, I don’t want to push them because I have a small tract of land and I don’t want to push them off there onto the neighbors. The conditions have to be right. He has to be showing up in daylight. In the last few years, I’ve really gotten into it and it worked really good. What the moon guide does is your program in there what day you’re going to hunt and then it tells you whether those deer are going to be closer to the bedding areas, whether they’re going to be closer to the transitional areas or whether they’re going to be closer to the destination food plots.
According to what the moon guide says, I have several stands set up in several different scenarios. That’s the one I choose to hunt according to the moon guide. I have to have them in daylight and I also have to have the wind in the right direction. They make some great products. As far as a scent control clothing, I use it at all. I use scent control clothing. I use the Scent-A-Way spray, I use Ozonics. I use it all. I think all of that helps. I don’t think you can 100% fool a mature buck’s nose. There have been multiple times that I drive three-and-a-half hours because the weather says that it’s going to be a northeast wind and I get up to Northwest Oklahoma and I’ve got a south wind. Going in another weight and then getting in there and trying to fool them because one time you bump into them, you’re not going to get very many opportunities at a mature deer. I have both. I have tree stands, I have ground blinds. I think every situation is a little bit different. You have to be able to adapt and that you have to have several different scenarios and types of stands to hunt.
Michael, you said a couple of key things. One, the condition has to be in your favor and against the deer. You want to want to tip it over 50%, a 50/50 chance because you want to be higher than 70%. Deer in the daylight, a moon phase and the wind, those three things in your favor, that counts for a lot. No question about it. How about your access and your exit points? How do you do that and not get busted, especially in the evening when the deer are already coming by? They might be in the open.
What I do is according to what the situation is, the wind, is there a high-pressure system that’s pushed through? Is there a cool front? I’m going to know by getting pictures of that deer at what is coming out if I get a cool front or whatever. I pretty well know by the topographical maps that I have by my place. I know. I’ve hunted for a long time. I know where they bed, I know where they’re going to feed, I know where that transition period is, so I know where all that’s at. What I do is depending on if it’s a morning or an evening hunt, I adjust. What I do is I always enter and exit my stands from where the deer activity’s going to be. If I know that the deer are bedded south of me, then I want to enter coming in from the north so that I’m not bothering any of that. I want to make sure that I have a south wind before I do that. If I don’t, if those conditions aren’t right, then I don’t hunt it.
Even if I drove three-and-a-half hours, I’m not like, “I’m already here. I might as well hunt.” I don’t do that. Everything has to be right. I know that the deer bedding south of me, they’re going to be coming north to the food sources. I’m going to enter in from the north to get in my stand, let the deer come to me. If I don’t see him that night or whatever and they go on out to the alfalfa, the destination food source is south of me. Whenever I leave, I’m not going to walk south with the wind and let the wind blow my scent right to them. I’m going to exit going either to the east or to the west and go back around to wherever I parked. I think personally, your entrance and your exit to your stand are very critical.
Just take note of that and think of I don’t care how many acres you have, activity and moon phase and there’s a lot of debate about the moon phase and I’ll just leave it at that and we’ll get different people to talk about the impact of the moon. I know personally, the moon can be an asset or it can be a detriment either in fishing or in hunting. I know that for a fact. Having said that, tell us one more time how to get ahold of you or how to buy your product.
Michael, anything you’d like to close with?
I just like to say thanks very much for allowing me to come and talk to you for a little bit. I like talking about whitetail. I’m not anybody special. I’m just an average ordinary hunter that has a passion. I’ve just taken that passion a little bit further than most people. We’ve done a lot of research and development on deer and deer nutrition, deer activity. I’m not going ever to talk bad about anybody’s product. I don’t care if you use my product or somebody else’s. It’s better than what Mother Nature provides. If you don’t help your deer reach their genetic potential, Mother Nature’s not going to do it other than age. There are very few deer that reached that six, seven, eight years old maturity out in the wild that’s going to grow that type of antler if you don’t help them out. There are certain seasons or certain years that we have droughts, that we have to provide that nutrition for those animals. It just depends on what you want. If you want to shoot 160-inch deer, if you don’t have 160-inch deer, you’re not going to be able to kill him. The best chance that you have is to grow that deer and help him reach maturity so that you can harvest it. Thank you very much for having me. I really enjoyed it. Thanks for giving me the opportunity.
On behalf of thousands of readers throughout North America, Michael Cleveland, thank you so much for being a guest. I look forward to catching up with you down the road.
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About Michael Cleveland
Ultimate Antler will allow your animals to reach their maximum genetic potential. It can be used as a complete feed, a supplement feed, and also as an attractant. Ultimate Antler is not only a protein feed, but it also has the key minerals blended together that allows your animals to grow larger, thicker, denser antlers. Ultimate Antler is comprised of 20% protein, made from natural products, such as soybean meal or cottonseed meal. Ultimate Antler contains no urea, chicken feathers, or other non-natural products.
Ultimate Antler has key minerals such as selenium (number one mineral for antler growth), copper and zinc (maximizing blood flow), and adding additional calcium (aiding in hardening of bones and aides in lactating does). Ultimate antler also has sodium, Phosphorus, Magnesium, manganese, Vital Amino Acids, and Vitamins A, D, and E. Ultimate Antler is for, but not limited to, whitetail deer, elk, mule deer, red deer, and fallow deer.
Feeding Directions: Feed as a free choice or as a supplement. Feed half to one and a half pounds of pellets per 100 pounds of weight.